Xalapa, Mexico—Capital of Virtues (Capital de las Virtudes)
I want to introduce you to a worthy, attractive, yet little-known-by-tourists Mexican city. In April 2026, CN and I took a seven-day jaunt to Xalapa (also spelled Jalapa,) in the eastern state of Veracruz. It has plenty of virtues and, IMHO, only one main vice.
Here’s the scoop: A big part of Xalapa’s attraction is that it is in the Mexican mainland coastal mountains, receives much rain, and is surrounded by coffee-growing farms and Pueblos Mágicos. It is full of schools and universities and rich culture: its musical offerings are notable and the architecture of some of its institutions is wow-ing. Two standouts are the Museum of Archeology (El Museo de Antropología de Xalapa) and the Tlaqná Concert Hall of the world-class Xalapa Symphony Orchestra. They treasure and feature their history. Xalapa’s population is pushing half-a-million; it is the capitol of Veracruz state; the nearest international airport is the city of Veracruz, about 65 miles (105 km) away. Some visitors take bus or van transport from Mexico City.
Nevertheless, Xalapa is not a huge tourist draw, nor is there a large foreign or expat community. CN and I stayed in the center of the city where residences and business are built into the slope of the hills. Many streets and sidewalks are narrow. The up-and-down walking can get one in shape quickly. The people were welcoming, offering help and guidance to us two grey-headed visitors. There were fewer English speakers than in other cities we’ve visited. And residents love their town—those who are born there seem stay there.
Xalapa’s major drawback—its vice that was a deal-breaker for us (when we played with the idea of moving there)—is its air pollution. It’s up there with the worst of the worst I’ve experienced. There are lots of private cars and taxis and they rev up to climb steep cobblestone streets; their exhaust is downright toxic. It made me almost throw up. Residents seem to be used to it, but I imagine the damage done to the lungs and hearts of young and old can be devastating.
One of the opportunities we took on our rainy last day while visiting Xalapa was a car-excursion into the lush green countryside with plantations and several charming Mágico Pueblos, namely Coatepec and Xico. And in Xico in July each year, there is an extraordinary festival with a colored sawdust path for a parade in honor of their patron saint, Mary Magdalena. Check it out online.
Gosh, if the city and state would underwrite an all-electric public transport fleet, promote electric bikes, have a massive solar-panel and renewal energy campaign for a few years—wow, what a more-glorious city Xalapa would be. That’s a vision I would happily hold for the city.
Comments